Tick Season is Upon Us


You found ticks on your dog. Now, what do you do? Ticks carry diseases such as Lyme disease, Ehrlichia bacteria, and anaplasmosis. The tick bite itself can additionally cause skin infections. These pests have got to go, and you can be the one to do it! With tweezers, some disinfectant, and a bit of bravery, you can remove the ticks from your dog in no time. Your canine companion will thank you from the bottom of his doggy heart.


Locating Ticks

#Know how to identify a tick and its preferred environment. Ticks enjoy tall grass and low shrubs. Some ticks are very small— almost flea-sized—while others are much larger. Ticks are generally black or brown and oval in shape. Like spiders and scorpions, they belong to the group of arthropods called arachnids, and they have eight legs.

#Gather the correct tools before you look for ticks. You will need a pair of fine-tipped tweezers and a jar filled with alcohol. You will also want to have some disinfectant around such as a chlorhexidine solution (Nolvasan) or povidone-iodine solution (Betadine) to clean the wound after removing the tick from your pet.

#If you live in an area where ticks are common, you may also want to get a device designed to remove ticks. These clever instruments look like a spoon with a notch cut into the side and it works great to remove ticks from people and pets.

#Though a common belief, you cannot actually kill ticks by flushing them down the toilet. The only way you can properly kill them is to put them in alcohol or spray them with flea and tick spray.

#Make sure your pet is in a calm and happy state. Removing ticks isn’t fun for your dog either. Give him his favorite toy to chew on and a treat or two (along with your love and affection) before you get started.

#Search your dog for ticks. You should check your canine friend for ticks whenever he has been somewhere that is known to have ticks (hiking trails, yards with tall grass, etc.) You should feel for small bumps with your hands and look for dark, circular bumps with your eyes. Begin your search on the top of your dog’s back and move down each side towards his chest and belly. Be sure to search in and around
#* Legs
#* Between his toes and pads of his feet
#* Under his legs (armpits), belly, chest, and tail
#* On top of, inside, and under the ears
#* Face and on the crown of the head
#* Chin
#* The front of the neck
#Use a comb if your dog’s hair is very thick or curly. If you have a hard time going through your pet’s hair, you might want to enlist the help of a fine-toothed comb to search your dog for ticks. If that doesn’t seem to work, you can set a blow dryer on cool and use that to part your dog’s hair. Just be aware that some dogs are afraid of hairdryers

#* You should use these instruments in addition to your hands since feeling the bumps is still the best method.


#Bathe/dip your dog with flea and tick shampoo/dip. These products may not be safe for very young puppies, so read and follow the directions carefully. Again, the chemicals will kill the ticks and make them easier to remove. If your pet is too young to use a shampoo or dip safely, don’t use the product. Proceed instead with manual removal of the ticks

#* Do NOT use them on cats unless the product specifically states that it is safe for cats.

#Keep the hair separated when you locate a tick. You want to keep the hair separated so that you don’t lose the tick. Though, if you accidentally lose the part you made, simply check the same area. Ticks don’t move while feeding since they bury their heads into your pet’s skin

#Spray the tick with flea and tick spray. Carefully follow the directions on the bottle and wait for the chemicals to kill the tick. Do not overdo it. You don’t want to poison your pet. The chemicals will cause the tick to release its bite and fall off or at least make it easier to remove manually

#* As with shampoos, many sprays should be avoided on puppies. Read and follow the directions carefully.

#* Some of the most effective sprays contain an ingredient called “fipronil.” This type of spray kills the tick, but it will not kill it instantly. If you are squeamish about removing the tick, then you can spray the tick and then wait 24 hours. By the next day, the tick will either have fallen off your dog or it will be easy to pluck off with tweezers.

#Use your tweezers to remove the tick. Grab the tick by the head and mouth area, right where they have entered the skin. It is very important that you grab the tick by the head rather than the body. If you grab the tick by the body, the
body will break off, leaving the head stuck in your dog’s skin. This can cause irritation and infection

#*Use a quick pulling motion to remove the tick. This will avoid giving the tick any warning, which may result in the tick grabbing on tighter or vomiting into your dog’s bloodstream. You can also use a special tick hook to pull off the tick, which gets as close to your dog’s skin as possible.

#* Do not use your fingers to remove the tick. If you use your fingers, you could squeeze the tick’s body and facilitate disease transfer to your pet. Using the special tick-removing device or carefully using tweezers is highly recommended.
#* If the tick does break off, your veterinarian will need to check the tick’s body parts left in the skin. Your veterinarian will determine whether there is a need to remove the leftover parts or not.

#Place the tick in the jar of alcohol. Make sure that the tick is submerged and can’t get out of the jar. The tick may take up to several hours to die

#Repeat the previous steps to remove every tick you find. Remember that depending on where your dog was playing, he may have quite a few ticks present, so be meticulous and detailed in your search to ensure that you remove each one

#Rub some disinfectant on the tick site. To help prevent infection, rub a triple antibiotic ointment on the spot where you removed the tick.


#Discard the ticks. Once you have finished removing all the ticks, make sure that they are all thoroughly sealed in the jar of alcohol. Put the lid on the jar and leave them in there for a day or so. When you are sure they are all dead, you can throw them in an outdoor trash can.

#Take your pet to the vet to check for disease or infection. Ticks can carry many diseases, particularly Lyme Disease. After removing ticks, make an appointment with the vet to ensure that nothing has been transmitted to your pet
#* It can be helpful to your vet if you save a few of the dead ticks when you go to dispose of them. Place them in a plastic bag and bring them to the vet. By identifying the type of tick(s), your vet will have an easier time assessing the potential for disease transmission.

#Check your pet regularly for more ticks. Anytime you take your dog for a hike or let him play in some tall grass where you know ticks are prevalent, you should check your pup for ticks.
#* Depending on the area, certain ticks are more likely during different seasons. This information can be found through your local cooperative extension office, online, or from your veterinarian.

#Make your pet and home unpleasant environments for ticks. Avoiding ticks is the most effective way to keep ticks off your dog. Apply an effective and safe tick and flea control product to your dog. There are spot-on products, oral products, and collars to help manage ticks on your dog. Consult with your vet before administering a new medication. Other ways to keep your dog tick-free include.

#* Keeping your grass and weeds trimmed to below ankle height.

#* Securing your trash cans with strong lids and take out any rock piles and brushy cover. This helps keep away rodents that may carry ticks.

#* Staying on the trails when hiking with your pet and making sure that your pet remains with you. Avoid wooded areas and long grasses where ticks are common. If your dog runs off the trail (as they often do), make sure to check him for ticks when you get home.

Quick Summary

To get ticks off of your dog, run your hands over their fur to feel for small bumps. Look for dark, circular specks, using a fine-toothed comb if your dog has thick hair. When you find a tick, keep the hair parted and spray the tick with a flea and tick spray. Use tweezers to grasp the tick by the head and swiftly pull it
off. Place it in a jar of alcohol and rub an antibiotic ointment on your dog’s skin to prevent infection.


*Always check your pets for ticks after being outdoors for long periods of time such as camping, hiking, hunting, or going to the dog park.

*Always kill a tick immediately after removal. Ticks left alive will reattach to your pets, you, and your family.*Keep your pet on a regular monthly flea and tick control regimen. Consult a vet before administering the product to be sure no health complications arise from the medication.

*You can also take your dog to your veterinarian or a professional groomer to remove ticks, particularly from dogs that are heavily infested. Your vet may recommend antibiotics in addition to testing for tick-transmitted diseases. Really heavy tick infestation may also result in anemia because the ticks are feeding on your dog’s blood.


*Do not use a flea/tick control medication without consulting your vet first. There are pros and cons to every product and your veterinarian will help you tailor a regimen specific for your situation and your pet.

*Ticks can carry diseases. They can transmit them to both you and your pet. In most cases, the tick needs to have been attached and feeding on you or your pet for over twenty-four hours to transmit disease, which makes it even more
important to check yourself and your pets immediately after potentially being exposed to ticks.


*Flea and tick spray or shampoo/dip
*Tick removing tool
*Tweezers, if not using a special tick-removing tool
*Fine-toothed comb
*Disinfectants such as chlorhexidine or povidone-iodine solution.


10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

A retractable leash is not so much a leash as it is a length of thin cord wound around a spring-loaded device housed inside a plastic handle. The handles of most retractable leashes are designed to fit comfortably in a human hand. A button on the handle controls how much of the cord is extended.

Retractable leashes are popular primarily because they aren’t as confining as regular leashes, allowing dogs more freedom to sniff and poke around on walks. But unfortunately, there are many downsides to this type of leash.

The length of retractable leashes, some of which can extend up to 26 feet, allows dogs to get far enough away from their humans that a situation can quickly turn dangerous. A dog on a retractable leash is often able to run into the middle of the street, for example, or make uninvited contact with other dogs or people.

In the above scenario or one in which your pet is being approached by an aggressive dog, it is nearly impossible to get control of the situation if the need arises. It’s much easier to regain control of – or protect — a dog at the end of a six-foot standard flat leash than it is if he’s 20 or so feet away at the end of what amounts to a thin string.
The thin cord of a retractable leash can break – especially when a powerful dog is on the other end of it. (more…)

Learn How House Training Your Puppy Can Be Beneficial

Learn How House Training Your Puppy Can Be Beneficial

Learn How House Training Your Puppy Can Be Beneficial

The number one priority of any new puppy owner is house training!  This is a learning procedure for you and your puppy. House_Training_ Your_ Puppy

  • Teach them where you need them to go potty. 
  • Teach them to ‘hold it’ when they don’t have access to the potty area.
  • Teach them how to reveal to you when they need to go potty
  • Teach them an expression or word to go potty when you require for them to go.
  • House training your puppy is similar to potty training your child.

If you would not do something with a child then please do not do it with your puppy!

This process is easy unless you do things that make it difficult.  Punishment has no place in house training and will make this process both more difficult and take longer. For ease of communication, I will assume you are outdoor training your puppy. For indoor training simply substitute ‘outside’ for ‘potty area’.


Start by gathering the correct equipment. Think for a moment about your field of expertise. Does using the proper equipment make things easier?

You will require:

  • Great quality puppy food.
  • Buckle collar or harness 3-4 foot non-retractable lightweight leash
  • 15-foot non-retractable cotton web long line
  • A place to confine your dog = This is the biggest zone your puppy will keep tidy and not bite up-commonly a carton or exercise pen A place to walk your canine for outside training
  • For indoor training either 2 canine litter boxes or 2 outlines that hold small pee-pee pads and a decent supply of pee-pee pads.
  • Little easy-to-swallow treats.
  • Carpet cleaner a decent measure of tolerance a comical inclination.

Consider these things before you begin:

  • Feed your puppy on a schedule.
  • What goes in comes out!
  • The puppy that eats all day will need to go at unpredictable times.
  • Feeding on a schedule allows you to predict when your puppy needs to eliminate.
  • The best place for your puppy to rest is in a little wire crate beside your bed.
  • It is a smart thought to have a bigger crate in another area of your home where you spend most of your time.
  • Consider utilizing an indoor exercise pen on the off chance that you have to leave your puppy for longer than four hours.
  • Pick a key phrase that the whole family concurs with. I use ‘hurry up’ with my puppies. You may also say ‘business’, ‘go potty’, ‘or ” water the grass’. The main thing is that you are comfortable saying the expression out in the open!


The Five Concepts of House Training Your Puppy

We should review the 5 concepts of House Training your puppy.

It is essential to show each of the five concepts to your puppy! There is no specific order to educate these: First is the means by which to educate your puppy on where to go potty. Choose where her potty zone is and reliably take her there. Make sure to state “Outside” as you go outside or “Inside” as you go to her indoor potty range. Give your treat five seconds after she has got done with going.

The second is to educate your puppy on where not to go potty. Abstain from unnerving and additionally rebuffing your puppy. Avoid frightening and/or punishing your puppy. Redirection without fear is the fastest way to results.

The third is to educate your puppy to hold it. Utilize repression to show this when you can’t watch your puppy. Utilize your leash (securely) inside when you can watch her.

Fourth is to instruct your puppy how to disclose to you she needs to go potty. I propose showing her to ring a chime as opposed to barking, whining, or scratching at the door.

Fifth is how to condition a keying expression to get your puppy to feel the desire to go potty when you require them to go. You will find that every one of the five concepts weaves together to persistently educate your puppy on what you expect from her. I do not believe that there is such a thing as a partially house-trained dog. Your puppy is either house-trained or is not. You can utilize these five concepts to instruct a puppy or educate a much older pooch, as long as the pooch is of sound personality and body. It is, substantially quicker and simpler to educate these concepts in puppyhood!